Lace Yoke for 1920's Envelope Chemise Part 4

Trim the seam to 1/4 inch, no more, and press it back away from the neckline. Be very careful when trimming and don’t snip your lace!

Now for the HARD part! Finish the seam with a rolled hem. Sounds simple enough but I must say this is one of the most difficult stitches to do consistently and well. When finishing a straight edge it is not as hard but on a curve as the neckline it can be a little tricky. Practice is the only thing that helps.

My best tips are; 1) not to leave too much fabric when trimming the seam or the hem will be too bulky, 2) not to leave too little fabric when trimming the seam or it will be difficult to get the hem to roll, and 3) use plenty of good old fashioned spit to moisten your fingers while rolling the fabric over your needle!! It just doesn’t want to go otherwise! Don’t worry, you’re going to wash it later anyway!

The clearest instructions I could find on how to carry out a rolled hem is in "French Hand Sewing" by Sarah Howard Stone on page 17. I am including a (really bad) copy of her illustration here as it is for educational purposes. There is no better book written on the subject. It contains clear detailed written instructions as well as "Janet Arnold" quality illustrations on all aspects of French Hand Sewing.

Getting started is the hardest part. Roll the fabric over your needle. I’m telling you, a little spit helps a lot! remove your needle from the roll and insert it under the roll, coming out at the top of the hem at the neckline. Come up under the roll at the neckline again, causing the thread to wrap around the roll (whip), repeat the length of the hem. The tricky part is keeping the roll even and consistent. You may need to re-roll around your needle or a straight pin many times as you go. It also helps to secure the end of the fabric to the trusty brown paper or use a sewing bird if you have one. Sometimes I sit crossed leg on the floor and pin the end to the knee of my pants. Whatever works. I personally felt like my stitch became acceptable just as I was finishing the hem!!

Not to worry, this project will present many opportunities to practice!

Lace Yoke for 1920's Envelope Chemise Part 3

Sorry for the lag in posts. My darling sister had her baby and the whole family was a little preoccupied! She had a beautiful, healthy, 8 lb. baby boy and we are all in love already!

Alas... back to the sewing room!! It is my favorite place after all!

When working with delicate fabrics such as this very thin lingerie silk, it is necessary more so than ever not to rush or skip steps. To ensure that the neckline is stable and does not stretch while attaching the yoke you must run a machine "stay" stitch 1/4 inch or so away from the neck edge.

Next, to position the lace yoke, line up the shoulder seams and center front, placing the edge of the "beading" lace just below the edge of the fabric so that the "edging" lace will line up with the rolled edge back neckline later. Pin generously and hand baste the lace to the chemise using a contrasting thread with a simple "running" stitch.

At this point I realized I had forgotten to add the pin tucks to the front!

Oops! Nobody's perfect!

Fortunately pin tucks do not take up any significant fabric so it is not impossible to add them now, but I recommend ideally adding them before basting on the lace yoke.

Fold the front of the chemise in half lengthwise lining up all the edges, pin and press lightly towards the center. Measure down 4 inches from the bottom of the yoke and mark with a pin. Bring your threaded and knotted needle between the folded layers and out of the fabric on the fold, right where the pin mark is. Then, "wrapping" the fold once with the thread, insert the needle on the backside of the fold and come up very close to the edge on the top side of the fabric. Make a tiny "running" stitch along the fold very close to the edge all the way to the yoke as seen in the photos.

To finish the seam, insert the needle into the front of the tuck and bring it out on the back side of the chemise opening up the folded layers, secure your thread and trim. Lay the chemise flat with "right" side up, press lightly at both sides of the tuck to encourage it to stand up.

Note: An iron is a seamstress best friend! Use it often! It is the key that separates a "home made" looking garment from a "professional" made one.

For the second and subsequent pin tucks; measure, fold and press to the right or left 1/4 inch from the previous stitching line. Begin stitching each tuck 1/4 shorter than it’s neighbor so the overall group of tucks has a pointed effect when complete.

If you look closely at this photo you can see the needle between the folded layers of fabric.

Now with coordinating thread, hand stitch the bottom edge of the lace yoke to the chemise using as small and even "running" stitch as you can manage.

The red thread in this photo is the basting stitch. The true seam in coordinating thread can be seen on the backside of the fabric just below this basted line.

　

Lace Yoke for 1920's Evnelope Chemise Part 2

To attach the insertion piece I gathered the top edge with a running stitch to "ease" the lace into a semi-circle and aligned it to the bottom of the "beading", "right" side down, using a tiny hem stitch in the same fashion as before.

I found a piece antique silk ribbon in the perfect shade of "honeydew" and cut it into two equal lengths. Then I tacked it to the "wrong" side of the lace at the shoulder seam of the yoke and threaded it through the beading with a bodkin.

This is a view of the "right" side of the yoke.

At this point I also trimmed the crinoline off the back of the piece of ribbon work I made in preparation to be sewn on to the yoke.

Next I will sew the yoke to the front of the silk chemise.

Lace Yoke for 1920's Envelope Chemise Part 1

I started by hand washing the vintage silk to remove any dust or smell from storage and age or sizing from manufacturing. I hung it to dry then used a warm iron to press the wrinkles. I have cut out the pattern, adding seam allowances where needed, and am ready to assemble the lace yoke of the 1920’s chemise using a technique known as "French Handsewing" or "Heirloom Sewing".

First, I must assemble the lace pieces that will make up the front yoke of the chemise. In order to maintain the shape of the neck line while sewing I traced the pattern to a portion of heavy brown paper.

I have made a minor change in my design at this point and decided to add a row of lace "beading" to the yoke as well, for form, function and embellishment. Running a ribbon through the "beading" will not only be pretty but add stability to the lace and allow me to gather it slightly at the neck as needed so it will lay flat against the body.

I made a running stitch through the top edge of the beading in order to "ease" the lace into the semi-circle shape for the yoke and pinned it with the "right" side down to the brown paper to secure it against slipping while joining the various lace pieces together. In hindsight, I should have basted it to the paper with large stitches as my thread kept getting caught on the pins while joining the lace.

Next, I aligned the trim lace to the top of the beading placing it "right" side down as well and began stitching the pieces together on the "wrong" side with a tiny hem stitch, taking up just the edges of each lace, pulling it taut as I went, but not so much that it causes the lace to gather. Continue stitching along the length of the beading leaving the extra trim lace attached in order to be sewn along the back neckline as a finishing trim later.

1920's Envelope Chemise

I have been hunting and gathering, sketching and planning and now I’m ready to share.

I have found a lovely silk batiste on-line in a fabulous "honeydew" color that will be perfect for my 1920-1924 chemise. I have a large collection of antique period laces to choose from. I selected three pieces, one thin piece in which to edge the entire chemise and two coordinating rose patterned pieces, one an insertion and the other an edge piece. I have made my own small silk flowers for embellishment as I priced out originals on e-Bay and they are WAY out of my price range!! I have a very cool book on ribbon work of the 1920's that gives very detailed instructions on recreating such ribbon work. "The Artful Ribbon" - Candace Kling

http://www.amazon.com/Artful-Ribbon-Beauties-Bloom/dp/1571200207

Here is the silk batiste layed out with the vintage lace and 1920's style silk ribbon work:

The basic pattern draft is relatively simple. Drafted with a Picken square according to The Women's Institute for Domestic Sciences method in my own personal measurements. I drafted one master pattern in which I can alter to have wide straps with a scooped neck line or centered thin ribbon straps with a straight top or a crochet yoke as indicated by the dotted lines on the pattern draft. I also included two options for finishing the bottom as an envelope or simple (straight bottom) chemise, you cold also sew the "envelope" closed to make it a step-in chemise.

These are not the best pictures of the patterns as they are taped to my glass back door! I often use it as a "light box" for tracing my drafts to tissue paper for cutting. I never cut the original draft apart. There is no sense in doing something twice if you don't have to!

　

I have decided to go with a wide strap, scoop neck for the 1920-1924 chemise with an envelope closure at the bottom much like the one in this 1920 catalog depiction.

I will finish it with ribbon flowers, lace and pin tucks as in this sketch:

1920's Undergarments Part 3

Yes, part 3. No we aren’t done yet. Almost.

After you had put on your chemise or vest and bloomers or drawers and fastened the corset and brassiere combination that best fit your form, you were ready to fasten your hose to your garters. Most corsets had built in garters or hose supporters, but if they did not, or you were one of those girls who chose not to wear a corset, then you could buy or make garters of pretty ribbon over tight elastic to hold up your hose.

Hose were mostly delicate knit silk or a fabric called Lisle which was very fine, tightly woven cotton and came in many colors. However rayon hose were available at a less expensive price, claiming equal quality and better wear. In winter months thicker cotton, sometimes ribbed hose were worn for warmth. The hose were seamed at the back with reinforced heels, usually pointed. For a short period of time mid-decade, shorter knee hose were in fashion that were woven with tight elastic at the top and required no garters to hold them up. Much like modern knee socks I imagine. They were usually decorated with silk ribbons or rosettes.

1920's Stockings

Your next layer depended entirely on the outfit that you were going to wear. If you were going to wear a lovely sheer blouse, very popular from 1920-1924 and your favorite skirt you would wear a corset cover or a camisole to hide your corset and give the blouse a pretty background on which to lay. A corset cover had larger cap sleeves made of beautiful lace, where as a camisole had thin straps like a slip. As these dainty, feminine blouses began to fade from catalogs in favor of the more simple "manish" shirts of the later half of the decade, so did the camisole and corset cover.

1920's Corset Covers and Camisoles

A vestee was often worn with a sweater or a suit and was basically a false shirt front.

1920's Vestees

1920's Vestees, Collars, and Cuffs

If you were wearing one of the long, sheer tunic style gowns that defined 1920’s fashion, you would wear a slip usually made in matching fabric especially for the gown, however standard black ready-made "costume" slips were available at shops and in catalogs. A white or flesh color slip would be worn under any other one piece dress, often with a "shadow proof" hem of double fabric layers to prevent light from casting shadows through sheer or semi-sheer dresses.

1920's Costume Slips

1920's Slips

Last but not least, less beautiful, maybe even more necessary, the question no one EVER wants to talk about...what did they do for sanitary protection?? Well, let me tell you it wasn’t pretty!! Given most of the options, I believe I would have just hibernated for four or five days every month!! Cumbersome and bulky only scratch the surface, not to mention yucky and gross!

Women wore sanitary belts made out of elastic webbing in which they fastened home made or store bought "sanitary napkins". Some such napkins were made of diaper cloth and were washed and reused in the same fashion cloth baby diapers were (and you thought you hated to do laundry!), others could be purchased from department stores that were made of a Cellulose core covered with cheese cloth and claimed to be "flushable", however they appear to me to be a plumbers worst nightmare!

1920's Sanitary Napkins

1920's Sanitary Belts, Aprons, and Napkins

Over this lovely belted ensemble you could wear a "comfortable" rubberized step-in, a rubberized sanitary "apron" or petticoat, or all of the above depending on your level of paranoia! I have this mental image of stiff, waddling women that crinkled when they walked!!

1920's Rubberized Sanitary Step-Ins

1920's Rubberized Sanitary Slips, Aprons, and Belts

I don’t plan on ever taking my reconstruction THIS seriously!! I believe some modern inventions and advancements are to be embraced!!

1920's Undergarments Part 2

The primary purpose of an undergarment was to keep the corset from rubbing the skin as well as keep it clean to limit laundering and to provide the proper foundation for the outer wear. There were many options available in contemporary magazines and mail order catalogs. You could have a vest with separate drawers, a simple chemise or the most common one piece "envelope" or "step in" combination suit.  In colder weather one piece "Union Suits" were worn.

Vest and Union Suits were made of soft, fine knitted fabrics such as cotton, silk, wool or rayon. Union Suits were one piece undergarments that had either tight or loose fitting legs with an access flap of some sort in the back. They both consisted of either a straight top with straps or a rounded neck with wider, built-up shoulders much like those of modern tank tops.

1920's Union Suit

1920's Knit Vests and Union Suits

1920's Cotton Jersey Union Suits

The Envelope, or Step-In, Chemise was made of dainty woven cotton, silk, or rayon. They could be worn either over or under a corset and had either "wide legs for sanitary purposes" (as stated in the Montgomery Wards 1926 catalog) or they snapped or buttoned at the crotch. The neck line could be straight or shaped just as the vest. There are countless variations on each of these. Before constructing such a garment, it’s a good idea to familiarize yourself with catalogs and magazines of the time to determine your preference.

1920's Step-In Chemise

1920's Envelope Chemise

          


Drawers or Bloomers were generally worn with a vest or a when a brassiere was necessary and were made of woven cotton or silk. The are essentially the same, the difference being that drawers have a wide finished leg and the leg of the bloomers are tightly finished with elastic. The later was primarily worn under shorter dresses, being made up of a matching fabric.

1920's Drawers

1920's Bloomers

Suggested materials for undergarments where cotton jersey for everyday/casual wear, fine cotton batiste, or silk, such as crepe de Chine or crepe-back satin for finer garments worn for special occasions. Color choices were generally white, flesh, peach, pale yellow, pale green or orchid. White garments were trimmed with white lace and colored garments in ecru or ivory. (Underwear and Lingerie - The Woman's Institute of Domestic Arts and Sciences,1925 page 53).

Even though colors appear different on individual monitors this clip should at least give you a general idea of what colors were typical of the time.



1920's Lingerie Fabrics



Ornamentation consisted of fine lace, embroidery, pintucks and ribbon work often referred to as "French hand sewing". The degree of decoration would depend on the occasion in which the garment would be worn. "It is frequently desirable to plan a matching set of lingerie, for instance, as a part of the bridal trousseau or graduation outfit. When this is the case, an essentially dainty trimming arrangement is usually decided on, since such and outfit is reserved for special occasions and consequently may be less practical than those garments intended to be worn every day. Then, too, a particular style of trimming is essential, so that the slip and chemise, when worn together, will not appear bulky or overdone" (Underwear and Lingerie - The Woman's Institute of Domestic Arts and Sciences,1925 page 51).

1920's Lingerie Set

I have already begun drafting my first group of patterns including a plain brassiere, a bandeau brassiere, drawers, bloomers, and two variations on the chemise. After I finish sharing my overview and initial research I will move into the actual construction of each of these garments here on the blog, sometime there after making the patterns themselves available online.