My Extant Corset

As I mentioned earlier my corset that I have is not exactly what I thought it was. I thought it was a 1920's underbust corset, it is in fact a 1930’s underbust corset. I am not completely disappointed because corset construction did not change drastically in ten years so I can still use it as a source for construction techniques.

The interesting thing is that women were still wearing true corsets in the mid 1930’s. How do I know it is from the mid 1930’s? I found this tag inside with no specific date, but with "NRA" and this symbol on it:

I thought to myself "What does the National Riffle Association have to do with corsets?!" He he! I have to laugh at myself! So, to Google it was!!

The National Recovery Administration was instituted by Franklin D. Roosevelt in 1933, after the war in order to bringing industry, labor and government together to create codes of "fair practices" and set prices.

National Recovery Administration

So, my corset was made sometime after 1933. I find this ever so slightly exciting in light of all those dummies out there that still insist, write it as the gospel and publish it as a fact in countless papers and books that women in the 1920’s threw out their corsets forever. If corsets were still being mass manufactured in the 1930’s, common sense will tell you they were in the 1920’s as well.

I do find it interesting that this particular style was still in demand in the mid 1930’s, but then again you wouldn’t catch me in a thong just because the younger generation may prefer them! Nor could I imagine my mother in a demi-cup bra. So again, calling on that common sense, styles just need time not only to catch on but to phase out as well.

Here are some detail photos of the construction:

Outside of 1930's Underbust Corset

Top of corset showing elastic, binding and boning all the
way to the top edge

Outside of back lacing

Inside of 1930's corset

Inside top edge showing close up of busk

Inside of 1930's corset showing side by side spiral boning
as well as 1/2 inch wide spring steel boning at side seams

Inside view of lacing set in a channel between two rows of
spiral steel boning

1920's Envelope Chemise Part 5

After studying my extant 1920’s night gown more closely (notes can be seen here My Collection ) I decided to change the way I was attaching the lace. Not only did it save time but it looks more professional and as it is in keeping with period methods it just made more sense to me.

I connected the shoulder seams with tiny French seams and then ran the remaining length of edge lace around the back of the neckline and a length around each arm hole as well, with the small zig zag stitch I discussed in my notes and trimmed the fabric close to the seam. It was fast and easy and most importantly, authentic!

I then used a French seam to close the sides of the chemise as well, as can be seen in the next three photos.

French Seam Step 1 on Right Side of Fabric

French Seam Turned And Pressed

French Seam Step 2 on Wrong Side of  Fabric

Next I prepared the placements for the snaps by reinforcing the fabric as the silk is very delicate. I folded the bottom of the crotch under twice, the correct width of the snaps, and stitched it into place.

Then I attached a small fold of fabric the width of the crotch to the center front for the receiving side of the snaps like so:

Same Width as Crotch

Press Edges Under

Pin in Place

Stitch

Dont worry about finishing of the bottom edge as that is where the lace trim will soon be attached.

Finally I used the same zig zag stitch to attach the trim lace around the entire bottom of the chemise and trimmed the fabric as close to the seam as possible.

Roll Lace Edge and Pin Down to Start

Trim Carefully As Close As Possible

See how nice and clean the finish is?
The zig zag stitch prevents the silk from freying.

I hand sewed the snaps in place and she is done!! I am very pleased with how it turned out and believe it to be as close of a representation of a period chemise as possible. It is lovely and feminine and yet sturdy enough to tolerate frequent wash and wear. The end result can be seen here: Completed Projects

Next I will be posting notes and pictures of my extant corset that is, after my research, not exactly what I thought it was...

Lace Yoke for 1920's Envelope Chemise Part 4

Trim the seam to 1/4 inch, no more, and press it back away from the neckline. Be very careful when trimming and don’t snip your lace!

Now for the HARD part! Finish the seam with a rolled hem. Sounds simple enough but I must say this is one of the most difficult stitches to do consistently and well. When finishing a straight edge it is not as hard but on a curve as the neckline it can be a little tricky. Practice is the only thing that helps.

My best tips are; 1) not to leave too much fabric when trimming the seam or the hem will be too bulky, 2) not to leave too little fabric when trimming the seam or it will be difficult to get the hem to roll, and 3) use plenty of good old fashioned spit to moisten your fingers while rolling the fabric over your needle!! It just doesn’t want to go otherwise! Don’t worry, you’re going to wash it later anyway!

The clearest instructions I could find on how to carry out a rolled hem is in "French Hand Sewing" by Sarah Howard Stone on page 17. I am including a (really bad) copy of her illustration here as it is for educational purposes. There is no better book written on the subject. It contains clear detailed written instructions as well as "Janet Arnold" quality illustrations on all aspects of French Hand Sewing.

Getting started is the hardest part. Roll the fabric over your needle. I’m telling you, a little spit helps a lot! remove your needle from the roll and insert it under the roll, coming out at the top of the hem at the neckline. Come up under the roll at the neckline again, causing the thread to wrap around the roll (whip), repeat the length of the hem. The tricky part is keeping the roll even and consistent. You may need to re-roll around your needle or a straight pin many times as you go. It also helps to secure the end of the fabric to the trusty brown paper or use a sewing bird if you have one. Sometimes I sit crossed leg on the floor and pin the end to the knee of my pants. Whatever works. I personally felt like my stitch became acceptable just as I was finishing the hem!!

Not to worry, this project will present many opportunities to practice!

Lace Yoke for 1920's Envelope Chemise Part 3

Sorry for the lag in posts. My darling sister had her baby and the whole family was a little preoccupied! She had a beautiful, healthy, 8 lb. baby boy and we are all in love already!

Alas... back to the sewing room!! It is my favorite place after all!

When working with delicate fabrics such as this very thin lingerie silk, it is necessary more so than ever not to rush or skip steps. To ensure that the neckline is stable and does not stretch while attaching the yoke you must run a machine "stay" stitch 1/4 inch or so away from the neck edge.

Next, to position the lace yoke, line up the shoulder seams and center front, placing the edge of the "beading" lace just below the edge of the fabric so that the "edging" lace will line up with the rolled edge back neckline later. Pin generously and hand baste the lace to the chemise using a contrasting thread with a simple "running" stitch.

At this point I realized I had forgotten to add the pin tucks to the front!

Oops! Nobody's perfect!

Fortunately pin tucks do not take up any significant fabric so it is not impossible to add them now, but I recommend ideally adding them before basting on the lace yoke.

Fold the front of the chemise in half lengthwise lining up all the edges, pin and press lightly towards the center. Measure down 4 inches from the bottom of the yoke and mark with a pin. Bring your threaded and knotted needle between the folded layers and out of the fabric on the fold, right where the pin mark is. Then, "wrapping" the fold once with the thread, insert the needle on the backside of the fold and come up very close to the edge on the top side of the fabric. Make a tiny "running" stitch along the fold very close to the edge all the way to the yoke as seen in the photos.

To finish the seam, insert the needle into the front of the tuck and bring it out on the back side of the chemise opening up the folded layers, secure your thread and trim. Lay the chemise flat with "right" side up, press lightly at both sides of the tuck to encourage it to stand up.

Note: An iron is a seamstress best friend! Use it often! It is the key that separates a "home made" looking garment from a "professional" made one.

For the second and subsequent pin tucks; measure, fold and press to the right or left 1/4 inch from the previous stitching line. Begin stitching each tuck 1/4 shorter than it’s neighbor so the overall group of tucks has a pointed effect when complete.

If you look closely at this photo you can see the needle between the folded layers of fabric.

Now with coordinating thread, hand stitch the bottom edge of the lace yoke to the chemise using as small and even "running" stitch as you can manage.

The red thread in this photo is the basting stitch. The true seam in coordinating thread can be seen on the backside of the fabric just below this basted line.

　

Lace Yoke for 1920's Evnelope Chemise Part 2

To attach the insertion piece I gathered the top edge with a running stitch to "ease" the lace into a semi-circle and aligned it to the bottom of the "beading", "right" side down, using a tiny hem stitch in the same fashion as before.

I found a piece antique silk ribbon in the perfect shade of "honeydew" and cut it into two equal lengths. Then I tacked it to the "wrong" side of the lace at the shoulder seam of the yoke and threaded it through the beading with a bodkin.

This is a view of the "right" side of the yoke.

At this point I also trimmed the crinoline off the back of the piece of ribbon work I made in preparation to be sewn on to the yoke.

Next I will sew the yoke to the front of the silk chemise.

Lace Yoke for 1920's Envelope Chemise Part 1

I started by hand washing the vintage silk to remove any dust or smell from storage and age or sizing from manufacturing. I hung it to dry then used a warm iron to press the wrinkles. I have cut out the pattern, adding seam allowances where needed, and am ready to assemble the lace yoke of the 1920’s chemise using a technique known as "French Handsewing" or "Heirloom Sewing".

First, I must assemble the lace pieces that will make up the front yoke of the chemise. In order to maintain the shape of the neck line while sewing I traced the pattern to a portion of heavy brown paper.

I have made a minor change in my design at this point and decided to add a row of lace "beading" to the yoke as well, for form, function and embellishment. Running a ribbon through the "beading" will not only be pretty but add stability to the lace and allow me to gather it slightly at the neck as needed so it will lay flat against the body.

I made a running stitch through the top edge of the beading in order to "ease" the lace into the semi-circle shape for the yoke and pinned it with the "right" side down to the brown paper to secure it against slipping while joining the various lace pieces together. In hindsight, I should have basted it to the paper with large stitches as my thread kept getting caught on the pins while joining the lace.

Next, I aligned the trim lace to the top of the beading placing it "right" side down as well and began stitching the pieces together on the "wrong" side with a tiny hem stitch, taking up just the edges of each lace, pulling it taut as I went, but not so much that it causes the lace to gather. Continue stitching along the length of the beading leaving the extra trim lace attached in order to be sewn along the back neckline as a finishing trim later.

1920's Envelope Chemise

I have been hunting and gathering, sketching and planning and now I’m ready to share.

I have found a lovely silk batiste on-line in a fabulous "honeydew" color that will be perfect for my 1920-1924 chemise. I have a large collection of antique period laces to choose from. I selected three pieces, one thin piece in which to edge the entire chemise and two coordinating rose patterned pieces, one an insertion and the other an edge piece. I have made my own small silk flowers for embellishment as I priced out originals on e-Bay and they are WAY out of my price range!! I have a very cool book on ribbon work of the 1920's that gives very detailed instructions on recreating such ribbon work. "The Artful Ribbon" - Candace Kling

http://www.amazon.com/Artful-Ribbon-Beauties-Bloom/dp/1571200207

Here is the silk batiste layed out with the vintage lace and 1920's style silk ribbon work:

The basic pattern draft is relatively simple. Drafted with a Picken square according to The Women's Institute for Domestic Sciences method in my own personal measurements. I drafted one master pattern in which I can alter to have wide straps with a scooped neck line or centered thin ribbon straps with a straight top or a crochet yoke as indicated by the dotted lines on the pattern draft. I also included two options for finishing the bottom as an envelope or simple (straight bottom) chemise, you cold also sew the "envelope" closed to make it a step-in chemise.

These are not the best pictures of the patterns as they are taped to my glass back door! I often use it as a "light box" for tracing my drafts to tissue paper for cutting. I never cut the original draft apart. There is no sense in doing something twice if you don't have to!

　

I have decided to go with a wide strap, scoop neck for the 1920-1924 chemise with an envelope closure at the bottom much like the one in this 1920 catalog depiction.

I will finish it with ribbon flowers, lace and pin tucks as in this sketch: