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The Vintage Dressmaker (1)

Saturday, June 18, 2011

1920's Envelope Chemise Part 5

After studying my extant 1920’s night gown more closely (notes can be seen here My Collection ) I decided to change the way I was attaching the lace. Not only did it save time but it looks more professional and as it is in keeping with period methods it just made more sense to me.

I connected the shoulder seams with tiny French seams and then ran the remaining length of edge lace around the back of the neckline and a length around each arm hole as well, with the small zig zag stitch I discussed in my notes and trimmed the fabric close to the seam. It was fast and easy and most importantly, authentic!

I then used a French seam to close the sides of the chemise as well, as can be seen in the next three photos.

French Seam Step 1 on Right Side of Fabric

French Seam Turned And Pressed

French Seam Step 2 on Wrong Side of  Fabric

Next I prepared the placements for the snaps by reinforcing the fabric as the silk is very delicate. I folded the bottom of the crotch under twice, the correct width of the snaps, and stitched it into place.

Then I attached a small fold of fabric the width of the crotch to the center front for the receiving side of the snaps like so:

Same Width as Crotch

Press Edges Under

Pin in Place


Dont worry about finishing of the bottom edge as that is where the lace trim will soon be attached.

Finally I used the same zig zag stitch to attach the trim lace around the entire bottom of the chemise and trimmed the fabric as close to the seam as possible.

Roll Lace Edge and Pin Down to Start

Trim Carefully As Close As Possible

See how nice and clean the finish is?
The zig zag stitch prevents the silk from freying.

I hand sewed the snaps in place and she is done!! I am very pleased with how it turned out and believe it to be as close of a representation of a period chemise as possible. It is lovely and feminine and yet sturdy enough to tolerate frequent wash and wear. The end result can be seen here: Completed Projects

Next I will be posting notes and pictures of my extant corset that is, after my research, not exactly what I thought it was...